From summit to sea - an unforgettable African adventure

Shared by Anna M.

We may have gone with the goal to climb Africa’s second-highest mountain, but Mount Kenya was so much more than simply a hiking trip. It was a three-part epic adventure that saw us dance with Masai villagers, haggle for spices in Zanzibar, sip cocktails beside white beaches and more.

Though not really part of our official trip, kicking things off with a three-day safari in the Masai Mara turned out to be a great decision. It was incredible to see giraffes, lions and wildebeest in the wild, and it gave us time to recover from the flight and find our feet in this amazing country.  

After the safari was over, we were all looking forward to relaxing in beautiful Zanzibar. But there was just one small thing we had to do first… a six-day hike up Mt Kenya, at altitude, camping in temperatures that could get down to minus twenty. We’d been warned summit day (starting at 3am) could be the most challenging walk of our lives. It had all seemed quite exciting when I signed up from the comfort of my lounge, but now I realised I actually had to do it, the fear started to kick in. 

Eight of us had signed up for this madness, ranging in age from 30 to 68, with varying levels of experience. Some had done numerous hikes at altitude while others - like me - hadn’t. United by a sense of adventure and a willingness to embrace whatever the mountain threw at us, we very quickly became a cohesive and supportive team. 

By the time we rolled into the lobby of our hotel in Nairobi for the trip briefing we were a little apprehensive, but our guides Moses and Eddie were calm and reassuring and happy to answer our questions. After a quick dinner, we headed off for an early night (and a panic repack for some of us).

The first day started with a bus ride out of Nairobi, winding our way through towns and villages, rice paddies turning into tea plantations as we got higher. After signing in at the park gates and meeting all 21 of our porters, we drove a little higher then it was time to get out of the bus and start walking.

With elephants sighted in the surrounding bamboo forest, we were instructed to stay as a group and take the rubber tips off our poles (after some clarifying questions it turns out this wasn’t to stab the elephants but to make sure they gripped properly on the loose ground). An hour’s walk took us to the Chogoria gate at 2950 metres and our first night’s accommodation in huts. It was a beautiful afternoon and we watched the sun go down over popcorn and biscuits provided by our wonderful cook Ashford before retreating into one of the huts for dinner in front of a roaring fire.

The next day was around five hours of walking as we made our way up to our first campsite - Lake Ellis. We made our way through lush landscapes and forests. After a lunch stop and detour to look at a waterfall, we continued up, the trees thinning until we were walking across moorland.

At camp, we were delighted to see our tents already set up for us, including a toilet tent - luxury! We were less happy when, as we were enjoying the peace of our stunning camp, another group roared up in jeeps and started setting up their camp right beside ours. Not quite the peaceful ambience we were hoping for and they turned out to be quite noisy late into the night (well after 9pm anyway!). Thankfully it was just one night and they moved on to a different camp the next night. 

Day three, we woke to frost on the ground and leopard poo all through the campsite. After a chilly alfresco breakfast and a quick cup of tea, we packed up our stuff and headed out for our next day’s walk. This one was a bit steeper and more challenging as the air got thinner. Altitude was starting to affect some of us but we took it ‘pole pole’ (slowly slowly in Swahili), plodding slowly upwards through the ever-changing landscape. We could see our destination, Point Lenana, in the distance as we walked. Still a long way away but drawing closer.

The landscape became rockier as we walked, dotted with ostrich lobelias, tall, feathery looking plants that are specific to Mount Kenya. We walked up to 4,100 metres before heading down 300 metres into our campsite at Lake Michaelson, a spectacular secluded spot nestled in its own valley. After a boggy, slippery, ankle-breaking descent we arrived, exhausted, to find two tents and Michele’s bags hadn’t made it to the camp. One of the porters had gone MIA but thankfully he - and the bags - turned up safe and sound an hour or so later. 

After being entertained by an abundance of rock hyraxes - quokka-like critters that live in the rocks of Mount Kenya - it was time for another briefing. And this time Moses and Eddie wanted to suggest an alternative option for summit day. The next day was a shorter day, just a four hour walk to the next camp. It meant we would have time to summit in the afternoon and avoid the 3am start the day after that. It also meant doing 1000 metres elevation in one day, but it would be warmer, and in daylight. The general consensus was that this was a good plan - as long as everyone was feeling ok with the altitude. Having spent a lot of time stressing about the summit day and the freezing conditions, we were all quite relieved to know there was another option. 

The next day, we woke to frost on the tents and a beautiful clear sunrise over the lake. By now the routine was second nature, dive out of sleeping clothes and scramble into hiking clothes, pack everything up and put bags outside tents, then a quick cup of tea or coffee followed by breakfast. Then we were off again.

After a slow climb up out of camp, we walked along a stunning valley dotted with lobelias. Greenery became more sparse as the landscape got rockier and more alpine, the peak of Point Lenana looming over us. The scree underfoot made it hard going and very slippery and the altitude was making itself known with every intake of breath. Everything was an effort, even when we were sitting down. It was tough, but we made it to our highest campsite - Simba Tarn, a barren moonscape in the shadow of Mount Kenya’s peak. There was a noticeable temperature drop and a biting wind that chilled us to our core, but the views down the valley were spectacular.

After lunch, it was decision time. We had a couple of people struggling with the altitude but they felt able to push on, so we decided to go for the summit that afternoon. 

The next three and a half hours were a test of endurance and mental toughness as we went up and up, slipping and sliding on the scree underfoot, wind battering us from all sides. We peered over steep edges to a mist-shrouded glacier far below. In a few places we had to scramble over rocks with the edge of the cliffs a little closer than was comfortable. The ascent was steep, almost vertical in places and breathing got harder the higher we climbed. But we plodded on silently, too out of breath to talk. 

The feeling when we looked up and saw the final ladder up to Point Lenana was overwhelming. For many of us it really was the most challenging walk of our lives but the sense of achievement was well worth it. Especially for those who were struggling with the altitude but still pushed on and didn’t give up - it was incredible to witness such strength and determination. 

Miraculously, the clouds parted and the sun came out as we reached the top, giving us some stunning views as we basked in the moment. Then after a lot of photos, it was time to descend. A few of the more confident went ahead, guided by Martin - one of the porters, who flew down the slopes effortlessly in gumboots, while we skidded behind him. No more pole pole, we were back at camp in 45 minutes to cheer the others as they came in not far behind. 

Diamonds Mt Kenya 2025 summit

After all that there wasn’t much energy for celebrating, just tea, a quick dinner and another early night. Camping at 4600 metres meant sleep was hard, with hearts racing and moments of breathless panic during the night. And while it was around minus five degrees, we all managed to stay warm thanks to lots of layers and heating pads. But getting out of my sleeping bag to put on another pair of socks left me completely out of breath and needing a few minutes to recover.

The next morning was a chilly start. After a steep and slippery uphill section, we headed down the other side of the mountain through a winding valley filled with flowers. It was a long day, eight hours of walking with a few rest breaks here and there, but walking down the hill to our final camp was such an incredible feeling. We’d done it! 

The next day we packed up our bags for the last time and jumped into the bus for the journey back to Nairobi. We stopped at Sirimon Gate to sign out of the park and say goodbye to the porters, then it was back to civilisation. High on the influx of oxygen, there was a lot of singing on the bus back.

Once we arrived back in Nairobi, it was time for a hot shower (heaven!), then a celebratory cocktail. The next morning we were up at 5am for our flight to Zanzibar and some well-deserved relaxation.

Our first port of call in Zanzibar was the incredible historic Stone Town, a maze of laneways and alleys packed with shops and markets. Too narrow to get a car in, we had to park outside and drag our suitcases through cobbled streets to reach our hotel. It was well worth the walk, as we arrived in a stunning courtyard and were taken upstairs to the rooftop with panoramic views of the town. 

A few of us decided to do a walking tour of the town in the afternoon, while others chose to relax on the hotel rooftop. Our walking tour guide Mohammed was very informative and managed to pack a lot into two hours including the slave museum, fish and meat markets, spice shopping, a walk along the beachfront, a quick look at the outside of Freddie Mercury’s house and numerous ornate doors. 

The next day, after being woken early by the call to prayers ringing out across the town, there was time for a coffee at the Zanzibar Coffee House, then we were off in the bus to our final destination - Fumba Beach lodge. It was everything we’d dreamed it would be, white sands, pool, hammocks, thatched huts and a bartender called Patrick who perfected the little-known art of lime sculpture. It was time to breathe and reflect on everything from the last two weeks. An amazing end to an unforgettable trip. 

Thank you to Pam, Katrina, Sarah, Tracy, Lis, Fiona and of course our fabulous coach Michele for your strength and commitment. And of course to World Ex who put together our trekking itinerary with great care. It was such a privilege to be able to take a few weeks out of normal life with such a great group of strong, inspiring and supportive women. It was an incredible experience that I think will stay with us all for a very long time.

And on behalf of us all, a special note for Coach Jacq, whose spirit and support was with us every step of the way. Though injury kept her from joining us in person, her confidence in our team helped carry us through. We thought of her often and felt her presence in the strength and camaraderie that defined this unforgettable journey. 💙